Mason Jar Chicken Coop Chandelier
Mason Jar Chicken Coop Chandelier – If you know me, I love visiting the coop. One of my favorite things in co-ops lately is chandeliers. Surely my chickens would like to be classy too! This chicken coop chandelier is also perfect for drying fresh herbs for the flock.
A few weeks ago I was inspired by my friend Sam’s creation on HGTV Gardens. With that in mind, I set to work creating a beautiful and functional chicken coop chandelier. I happened to find this amazing one at last week’s Vintage Bazaar. This chandelier I made has several uses. It is an excellent rack for drying herbs and lights.
Mason Jar Chicken Coop Chandelier
To thread the hook through the lampshade, connect them, put washers on both sides of the lampshade.
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Then we’ll move on to the jar. You will want to put a hook on your jar.
Fill the jar with some dry rice. This will help keep your flameless candle stable and also absorb any moisture that might develop if the jar is sealed.
At this point you can finish your chandelier, but if you are like me and in the process of drying herbs, why not decorate your chandelier with them? That way they dry out and then you can take them off and share with your flock!
Using small strands of garden twine, take a few stems of herb cuttings and tie them with twine. I used oregano, mint, lavender and pineapple sage.
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There are many variations you can make with this project. If you have electricity, try connecting this lamp with a bulb inside a jar instead of a candle and rice. I’ve included a complete supply list below so you can prepare it at your local hardware store. I would strongly advise you to bring a lampshade with you to make sure the hardware fits you perfectly.
You can adjust the size of your lampshade and the size of your mason jar based on the size of your coop. The possibilities are endless. We love jars in my house. In addition to storing food, they are great for water glasses and Bloyd Mary’s.
I saw something online a while ago where someone made a jar pendant out of a cheap kitchen sink and I thought something similar would look great on our table.
The real star (and expense) of this project are the six 40W Edison bulbs. These bulbs are expensive, inefficient, and beautiful. Since most of the house is on fluorescent or LED bulbs, I figured I was entitled to a little luxury.
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The lamp is mounted on a damaged redwood panel that was once part of a chicken coop.
The total cost was about $100, and almost half of that was 6 Edison bulbs. I had the jars, so if you have to buy them, I guess it would be another $12.
Vanity is easily destroyed. There is a chrome trim ring that is pressure-fitted around each of the six bulb sockets. This is all that holds the upper chrome trim to the lightweight base. I painted the top part along with the 6 decorative rings and left the base on the side.
To paint the rings, I put some wood screws into a piece of wood so I could lift the rings and get an even color.
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I then cut a hole in the 6 covers using a hole saw. To find the center I traced the outline of the lid and then drew a square around it using square (motion picture)
Then I drew two lines from corner to corner. This marks the center. I put the lid on top and using a ruler lined up to the corners of the square I drew, marked the center.
There’s probably some easier way to do it using fancy math and book learning, but I’m a simple man.
My first attempt to cut the hole was unsuccessful as shown in the picture. The cover popped off and the saw made a mess. Also, I realized that the lids don’t sit flat when laid white side up.
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On my second attempt, I cut the metal side of the cover up, using some spring clamps and a foot to hold the cover in place. It turned out great. The caps are very thin metal, so the trick is to use almost no pressure. If you press with a drill, you will break the cover.
At that point I realized the hole I had cut was too big, so I went back to the hardware store to get the right size hole saw (1.5″). Typical.
I then attached 6 drilled caps to the top of the light, which I painted earlier. To make sure everything lined up, I placed the top of the light on the stand so the rings went over the protruding lights. I then put 3 sheet metal screws through each cover. Don’t forget to put a screw ring under each cover! The 3 sheet metal screws are the only thing that will support the weight of the jar, so it’s important to have a tight fit.
The sockets are held on the base with a black clip (see picture). I accidentally put my top screws right there, you see. When the tips of the screws hit the black clip, the cover would not lie flat. I cut off the tops of the screws with a dremel.
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At this point I thought it would be smart to check that the light was working and I wouldn’t break myself.
This should be pretty self explanatory, but there are 2 white wires and 2 black wires that I connected to the length of electrical cable I bought. I used the included wire nuts to connect them all.
I also drilled what will be the exit hole for the wire in the light base. This can be any size as long as it is larger than your wire. I cleaned up the hole with my dremel so I wouldn’t cut the wire on the sharp edge. A small file would also work well.
I quickly connected the wire to the end of the old extension cord and was happy to see that all the lights came on.
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At this point I attached the light base to my board. The record was pretty dirty after a few years, so my girlfriend made me clean it.
The light comes with only 2 mounting holes. I drilled 8 more holes because the light will hang upside down and not vertically as planned. I first drilled a hole in the sheet metal with a step drill and then attached it to the board with wood screws.
I should add that as I was installing the light on the board, it became clear that the width of my board varied 1/4″ from one end to the other. I realized that this added to the rustic appeal, as it was the path of least resistance.
I then drilled an exit hole in the board for the wire to go through, using the hole I had previously drilled through the sheet metal backing. I made a knot in the wire to prevent it from going through and pulled the wire through the hole until it hit the knot.
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It was time to close everything. I put the cover on, pushed the 6 decorative rings over the sockets and secured the cover with screws. It is worth noting that in the original form there is only one screw hole that holds the cover to the base. This is because the light is meant to hang vertically. The only thing holding the lid on is this one screw and the compression fit of the 6 trim rings that push the lid on. I felt that wasn’t enough, so I added 5 extra sheet metal screws, 3 total on each side.
I drilled pilot holes in the sheet metal before inserting the screws which I painted to match everything else.
The bright part itself is now finished. This was a great opportunity to test it again before hanging it up and to admire my work so far.
To hang the light, I first decided where I wanted it to go and then screwed a metal hook into the ceiling to hold the light. I used a stud finder to find a 2×4 to screw the hook into.
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The light is supported by 3 lengths of 1/2″ manila rope, 1 length at each end of the light and 1 piece to connect to the hook.
I drilled two 5/8″ holes in each end of the board to accommodate the rope. Both ends of the rope were threaded through the holes in the board at the top and then tied to keep them from slipping through. This creates a loop of rope.
I cut the rope using very
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